LOCAL HIGHLIGHTS JAFFNA Capital city of Sri Lanka ’ s Northern Province , Jaffna is quietly re-emerging from its imposed civil-war stance as hub of the Tamil rebellion . Although visual scars of the fighting still remain , there are a number of treasures to seek out , not least the lively bazaar where gold and beautiful Indian saris make for a perfect purchase . Once home to many rare and historical manuscripts relating to the history of ancient Sri Lanka , the Jaffna Library was ravaged by fire in the 1980s at the height of the unrest , with many ancient books subsequently lost ad infinitum . Reopened in 2003 , the library is today watched over by Saraswati , the Hindu goddess of learning . One of the first parts of the islands conquered by the Portuguese and Dutch colonials , Jaffna Fort was built in 1618 by the Portuguese . Extended by the Dutch in the late 18th century to facilitate trading , the fort has until recent times been the battleground between the LTTE and the Sri Lankan army . Homages to the breadth of religious persuasion in Jaffna are in evidence at every turn , from the architectural Italianate beauty of Anglican St James ’ Church and the quirkily colourful Jummah Mosque to the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple , one of the most impressive and significant Hindu Temples on the peninsula , dedicated to Lord Muruga .
THE JAFFNA PENINSULA Connected to mainland Sri Lanka by a narrow stretch of land occupied by the Chundikkulam Bird Sanctuary and the Elephant Pass causeway , this low-lying peninsula , much of it covered in shallow lagoons , is renowned for its intensive agricultural programme . Mangoes , potatoes , onions , chillies and millet are its principal crops . Palmyrah trees , a taller and rather starker version of the southern coconut palm grow here , from which is derived the local brew , toddy . Beyond the capital itself , the peninsula boasts a number of authentic and unspoilt beaches that are quieter and significantly less touristy than those further south . The kaleidoscopic Nagapoosani Temple and its imposing five-headed cobra is a must-see , with Hindu worshippers flocking to this ancient shrine built by the ancient Naga peoples of Sri Lanka , worshippers of the snake god . North of Jaffna meanwhile , about halfway to Kankesanturai , you ’ ll encounter 100 miniature dagobas , dome-shaped shrines said to contain the relics of Buddha and Buddhist saints and thought to be over 2000 years old .
THE ISLANDS WEST OF JAFFNA Of the many islands lying off the west coast of Jaffna , a number are worth singling out for their beauty and cultural treasures . Three of the major islands – Kayts , Karaitivu , where you ’ ll find Casuarina Beach , the finest on the peninsula , and Punkudutivu – are joined to the Jaffna peninsula by causeway , with the outlying islands accessible by boat . As the infrastructure in this part of the island develops , be prepared for a rather adventurous journey of discovery . Nainativu ( Haarlem ) is renowned as a pilgrimage destination , largely due to its ancient Buddhist connections , the brilliant white Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya acting as the focal point for those seeking to pay respectful homage . The island also has a strong Hindu presence and its riotously colourful temple complex of Sri Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil is a sight to behold , the architectural detail simply breathtaking . Named after the Dutch town of the same name , Delft ( Neduntivu ) is an island of windswept beauty where remnants of Portuguese and Dutch influence remain , wild ponies roam , and the architecture comprises huge chunks of coral sourced directly from the land . To the west of the island are the remains of a thousand-yearold ancient temple from the Chola dynasty , whilst the garrison fort attracts interest for its geological composition and history .
TRINCOMALEE Affectionately known as ‘ Trinco ’, this deep-water port , described by Nelson as one of the finest in the world , has been the target of many a colonial battle in its long history . More recently , the city has endured the ravages of civil war coupled with the devastation of the 2004 tsunami , yet , out of the shadows of adversity , Trincomalee is well on the road to recovery and is enjoying a boom in popularity , particularly in its new-found status as gateway to the beautiful beach resorts of Uppuveli and Nilaveli . The city itself is a melting pot of Tamil , Sinhalese and Muslim cultures ; so a few hours can easily be passed exploring the main sights including the thriving market , Fort Frederick , dating back to the 16th century , and Swarmi Rock , better known as Lover ’ s Leap following the legendary tale of a jilted lover throwing herself to a watery grave . Here you ’ ll find the revered Koneswaram Kovilis temple , a pilgrimage site for many who ward away evil spirits by smashing coconuts . Outside the city , you ’ ll find the legendary hot springs of Kanniya , known for their therapeutic properties and believed to have been created by the god , Vishnu , as well as the ancient Velgam Vehera temple dating back to 2 A . D and the Thiriyai Vata-de-ge monument , carved with Bhyana Buddhas and Bodhisattva images . Whale-watching for blue whale is also a popular east coast attraction from May to October .
BEACHES OF THE EAST COAST Acclaimed as the finest stretch of coastline on Sri Lanka ’ s eastern shores , Nilaveli Beach stretches 15km from Uppuveli , 5km from Trincomalee , all the way up to Nilaveli itself . Boasting white sands and crystal-clear waters , it naturally acts as a honeypot for sun worshippers far and wide . Pigeon Island National Park lies just 2km off the coast and is renowned as one of Sri Lanka ’ s best marine reserves and ecosystems ( visits only possible between the months of May to October ). Further south , unspoilt Passikudah Beach is protected from the ocean in its own tranquil bay and provides a picture-postcard image of heaven on earth ; its shallow shoreline the perfect spot for a leisurely meander , its coral-rich waters popular for diving . The former fishing village of Arugum Bay is fast becoming a popular hangout for the surfing community between the months of April and October , given its reputation as one of South-East Asia ’ s best surfing destinations . The resort lies on an elephant corridor and the area offers superb wildlife viewing opportunities all year round .
ACCOMMODATION IN A NUTSHELL
ECO-CHIC BOUTIQUE Nestled on a ten-acre estate in Kuchchaveli , north of Trincomalee , the up-market eco-retreat of Jungle Beach offers secluded and spacious luxury cabins , crafted from indigenous materials but modern in design , and boasts the most amazing ocean and lagoon views . Occupying a romantically secluded beachfront setting overlooking Passikudah Bay , the eco-friendly and family-orientated Maalu Maalu Resort reflects the authentic style of a traditional ‘ wadiya ’ or fishing village . Its chalet accommodation and adjoining public areas seamlessly blend with the surrounding environment .
FIRST-CLASS BEACH Combining modern and minimalist refinement with traditional charm , Pigeon Island Beach Resort conveys an understated elegance , with private butler service and old-world curios adding character .
RETRO-CHIC BEACH Situated on the sandy beaches of Nilaveli , the Trinco Blu has been transformed from its original 1970s incarnation as a sailing vessel to become a bright , retro-chic beach resort hotel of character .
MID-RANGE Overlooking Pigeon Island National Park , the Anilana Nilaveli sits on a strip of lawn and poolside patio , lined with dense trees , overlooking the ocean . The hotel is renowned for its creative cuisine and dining options .
CITY COMFORT A city hotel in-keeping with European standards of luxury , Jetwing Jaffna offers the best available accommodation in the north . The hotel is situated just a short walk from Jaffna ’ s library , fort , and the lagoon . The hotel offers a restaurant , a bar , and comfortable and authentic rooms .
CLIMATE Outside of the northeast monsoon season ( December to March , but the wettest months being October to January ) which accounts for more than 90 % of the annual rainfall , the Northern and Eastern Provinces tend to offer a dry heat throughout the rest of the year ranging from 26 C to 33 C .
DRIVING DISTANCES Colombo to Jaffna : 10 hours ( 363km ) Colombo to Trincomalee : 8 hours ( 264km ) Jaffna to Sigirya : 4 hours ( 262km ) Trincomalee to Arugam Bay : 4 hours ( 250km ) Trincomalee to Jaffna : 6 hours ( 238km ) Trincomalee to Passikudah : 2 hours ( 115km ) Trincomalee to Polonnaruwa : 1¾ hours ( 112km ) Trincomalee to Sigiriya : 1.5-2 hours ( 103km )
Sun loungers by the beach
Diving off the Sri Lankan coast
Temple in Jaffna
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